We at Endless Summer Flower Farm strive to please our customers!!

It is our Store Policy (See FAQ below) to only offer cash refunds when the product you order is not available. In the event we sell out of one of your choices of tubers we can either refund your money or give you substituting tubers of equal or greater value in place of the ones we were out of.

On the order form you will be asked to tell us if you are willing to accept substitutions. If you do not make a choice then we will make substitutions. If you choose no to accepting substitutions then we will simply refund your money. If you choose yes then please list other variety's in the comments section that you would like to receive if possible.

CUTTING DAHLIAS: Cut early in the morning or late at night. Place flowers immediately into hot (130) degree water, then set aside in a cool draft free area to cool for 2 hours before arranging. When arranging your flowers remove any leaves that would be under water. Display your flowers in a cool part of your home out of direct sunlight. By misting regularly, changing the water every other day, and re-cutting the stems your blooms will last several days.

SLUGS: Slugs love dahlias, place slug bait or traps around the garden as soon as possible.

Location: The ideal location for dahlias is one in full sun, however the plants will tolerate partial shade.

Soil: Dahlias prefer a sandy, well drained loam. If the soil is heavy, the addition of mulch or sand is advisable. If the soil is too sandy the addition of peat moss is advisable to retain moisture. Dahlias will grow with a pH of between 6-7 with a PH 6.5 being ideal. Avoid planting close to trees, shrubs or in perennial bed where they will get shaded out.

Height & Spacing: Dahlia plants vary in heights from one foot to seven feet. Check variety for height, and plant the taller ones to the rear of the garden. Space your dahlias according to bloom size-the large varieties should be planted two to three feet apart, smaller ones one to two feet apart.

Fertilizers: About two weeks before planting, broadcast 10-10-10 over the soil, or a one inch layer of compost, and work into the soil. Mix a tablespoon of Bulb Tone or bone meal in the hole with the soil prior to planting the tuber in the hole. Dahlias may be foliage-fed with a fertilizer such as Bonide Pro-Bloom 3-4-17. A granular balanced fertilizer may be sprinkled on the soil in July and watered in.

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TO VIEW A VIDEO ON DIGGING & DIVIDING DAHLIAS

DIGGING & STORING: Dahlias should be dug in the fall after the `15th of October. Just before digging, cut the stalk off leaving 6” above ground level for a handle. Tie a label onto the handle with the dahlia name. With a spade dig around the entire plant about 1 foot from the stalk. Carefully lift up tuber clump with the spade, use care to prevent broken necks. Set tuber clump aside to dry for a few hours, then remove excess dirt from around the clump of tubers. Next wash excess dirt from around tubers, then divide and label individual tubers.

There are many different ways to store your tubers: They may be stored in shavings, peat moss, sand, sawdust , vermiculite etc. We have switched to the newest way of storage which is to wrap them in saran wrap. The tubers do not tend to dry out and stay nice and firm. To store them in this way tear off a sheet of plastic wrap about 2’ long and lay on a flat surface. Place a tuber on one end and roll the plastic over one complete turn. Lay another along side and roll again. Make sure no tuber is touching another; plastic wrap must separate all tubers. You may wrap 5+ tubers per package depending on tuber size, but in the last 6-7 inches fold over the side portions of the plastic wrap and continue to roll to the end. Fasten with masking tape that is labeled with the tuber name.

Wrapped bundles should be stored at 40-50 degrees F, but may be stored up to 60 degrees F if necessary. We have done this with excellent results. Store in cardboard boxes or other containers you would ordinarily use. Do not store in air tight containers, the tubers will rot as they need an exchange of air. The tubers emerge very firm, low losses due to tuber rot, and no loss from shriveling or drying out.

When you are ready to plant or pot up your tubers, open the package, remove the tubers and check for eyes. The tubers tend to eye up earlier with this method, but some will not have eyed up yet as they all seem to have there own timetable. The ones that haven’t eyed up yet can be placed in flats, covered with damp vermiculite or peat moss and placed in 70-75 degrees F. In 1 or 2 weeks recheck the tubers for eye development. 

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PLANTING: Dahlia tubers may be planted 2-3 weeks before last frost as it takes 3 weeks for the sprouts to break ground. Dahlia plants should not be planted until all danger of frost is passed. The exact time varies with the locality. Too early planting may result in the tuber rotting in the ground.

Check your soil for proper moisture, it is better to plant when the soil is slightly moist.

Place stakes where the tubers are to be planted, labeling them with the name of the dahlia being planted.

Remove about five inches of soil; place the tuber flat with the eye facing upward, about one-two inches from the stake. Cover the tuber with soil; it should be about five inches below the ground. The tubers should be planted shallower more like three-four inches in heavy soil.

WATERING: Do not water immediately after planting. Too much water at this time can cause tuber rot. When the sprouts begin breaking ground, start watering. Normal soil should have a thorough soaking once a week. The soil should not be allowed to dry out during the blooming season.

PLEASE NOTE: